by Traci McBride
Q: A boutique owner asks: How do you recommend helping customers with the “size trap” issue — what a size label says vs. how it looks on their bodies?
A: This can be as frustrating to the client as it is the salesperson! This issue has become more prevalent the last 20 years since the U.S. government got out of the business of standardizing sizes. No longer do we have a standard sizing system across the board — so each manufacturer has developed their own specifications and measurements of sizing. Mass production has played into what shows up in stores.
My message is — It’s NOT you, its never you, it’s the clothes!
When I work with clients, pre-pulling clothes and stocking dressing rooms with the styles, cuts, colors, and sizes that they need to build on the wardrobes they have at home, I always bring several sizes to best gauge their sizes “at that store or by that Brand.” Many times a person will be one size at New York & Co. and then another size at White House/Black Market or Talbot’s. I keep notes of the sizes that best meet their needs at each store as well for future shopping trips. My goal is to act as an advocate for my clients so they won’t be “talked” into anything that does not honor their body — no matter what. Women need to stop beating themselves up with the numbers! Regardless of your size — from 00 to 3X — the number on the tag doesn’t determine your value as a person.
My advice is to avoid all garments that bunch, pull or sag and bring unwanted attention to an area of your body that you don’t want to focus on. Many times it’s necessary to up-size and then tailor the item to perfection. Off the rack garments need professional tailoring 90 percent of the time. It isn’t only about the size its about your personal and unique shape. Instead of thinking of it as a “bigger” size, look at it as a flattering size vs. unflattering size. Take the numbers out it.
Several retailers, such as Chico’s and Torrid, have changed the traditional numbers and instead use 00 to 4. Which only makes it all the more confusing for shoppers.
For the sales people out there, be mindful of how you approach giving support in the dressing room. Your words have a big impact on the fragile half-naked person in that tiny dressing room standing in front of a mirror! Treat others as you would want to be treated.
Really, the only way to find the right fit is to try on the clothes. Bring your best advocate to do your running for right-sizing and all the details that make up a supportive and effortless wardrobe that will show you at your very best every day.
ABOUT TRACI MCBRIDE: Traci is the wardrobe stylist at TeeMcBee Image Consulting. Subscribe to her newsletter, schedule a style strategy call, or request Tee Speaks to infuse your organization with passion and style.
FIT, FIT, FIT — I can’t say this enough: Avoid big, baggy, oversized clothing. It only makes you look bigger and hides your shape. Fit, focus, and flow — fit the smallest area (under your bust or waist), focus the attention to your best asset (bust, face, legs, tone arms, etc), and let your clothes then flow over everything else. Those of you that think you are hiding your muffin tops or extra padding, beware. Baggy clothes only make them appear larger. Instead, instantly smooth them with a shaper camisole and shapely clothes. Another no-no is getting stuck on numbers. Don’t decide that, since you are a size 10, you won’t for any reason even try on a 12 even though it will fit and flatter you. You end up wearing your clothes too tight and practically bursting out of them — also unflattering. Most women at any size can wear a number smaller or larger, depending on the designer, cut, style, and fabric — so don’t get stuck on a number.
MAINTENANCE — Presenting yourself in a crumpled t-shirt with old stains on it communicates something very different than a pressed, clean t-shirt punched up with a colorful gauze scarf or bandanna tied at your neck. This extends to every garment, but please don’t forget your shoes! Be brave. Pitch those “broken in” shoes that have seen better days. I know they are so comfortable, but they are ruining every single outfit you wear them with. If they are not leather and can’t be spruced up by a talented cobbler, release them.
DETAILS, DETAILS — Have you been slipping on a top and bottom and walking out the door? It’s all in the details of adding a scarf, earrings, and a bracelet … you know another detail that communicates style and confidence. It doesn’t have to be fussy or heavy, but accessories in your power color can brighten your face and tell the world, “I like and respect myself, so you better too.” Don’t forget the shoes. They are not only functional but can be flattering and fashionable. Stylish flats will always trump an athletic shoe (which is only for working out or power walking). Add a third layer to up the style factor: a vest, cardigan, unlined cotton blazer, etc. Show how you know what you are doing and took time to honor your look.
find in closets all over Northeast Ohio is either all black shoes or mostly black shoes with a navy or brown thrown in there. I understand why women do this. They are thinking black is a basic; a staple that goes with everything since it is a neutral. We have heard this our whole life. Well, I always want to get you to stand out and look fresh, modern, and ageless every day, not just on special occasions.
Use the season’s favorites of emerald green, sunshine yellow or poppy. Or stick with another neutral, nude (closet match to your skin tone), or metallic. Skirts or dresses in any color (even black if you must) will look fresher with nude, and it elongates your leg line.
MEN — Pop some color in unexpected ways. Men have so much less opportunity to add color since they don’t wear lipstick, earrings or statement necklaces. That doesn’t doom them to navy, brown, black, and grey for life. Splash that suit or sport coat with a eye catching pocket square that doesn’t match your tie.
Casually, an easy, fun, modern approach is to wear a shirt with a contrasting collar and cuff either the whole thing or just the inside area of the cuff and collar. That is an elegant touch. How about a colorful shirt with a vest and jeans? Step out of your usual and be daring.
Obviously, each of us needs to be dressed each day before we leave our homes. Regardless of how you spend your day, getting dressed is universal. Over the years I’ve been told how frustrating it can be to decide what to wear and get all the items needed prepped and ready. I’ve been in closets that have awkward organization, which causes the owner to dig through bins or shelving piled high with clothes to find the “other shoe.” Having the tools you need at your fingertips will completely change how you begin each and every day of your life. Regardless of whether you have a tiny closet or a huge walk-in that you share with your partner, having a system is the key to joy in the closet.
I talk and write about “closet detoxes” all the time, yet most people don’t take the time for this. I find when you have a professional come to your closet and sort through everything with you, it’s an eye-opening experience. Even if you are organized to begin with, I just know you have some items that you are not getting enough out of (or possibly none at all).
Closet detox: We go through all your clothes, shoes, and accessories for the current season. You put on each item so together we can evaluate the fit, cut, fabric and color in the mirror, as I explain why each item does or doesn’t work on your shape. Then we move to shoes, accessories and coats, taking detailed notes of items we need to build on and colors we need more of, as we rebuild what you have.
Power shopping: Using only the targeted list we created, I shop for all your needs and prepare for your arrival at a dressing room at whatever stores we determined would work best for your needs.
Master the “mixx” and look book session: You take center stage as each complete outfit is styled just for you as we snap pictures of you in each for your look book. This step is the “secret sauce” to effortless dressing each day.
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